For over six months the new DORNIER disc leno device, type Disc-O-Leno®, has been installed on air jet and rapier weaving machines for various types of fabrics and applications. The significant improvement in the quality of selvedges produced has generated a lot of interest with our customers inquiring about retrofitting this device on existing machines.

The following information outlines the practical experience with the DoSelvedge®, gained in various fields of application.

Worsted and cashmere fabrics

As a direct result of the increasing utilization of automatic stacking and cutting equipment in the ready-made clothing industry, weavers are increasingly faced with the need to produce selvedges that satisfy the needs of automated cutting equipment.

The tucked selvedge causes layers of fabric to shift when they are stacked prior to cutting, and during the automatic cutting operation this leads to faulty garment pieces. As a result, these cut and sew operations tend to prefer a leno selvedge.

However, the classic leno selvedge is very often not strong enough to withstand the rigors of the scouring process and tend to burst on the tenter frame. Depending upon the quality of this form of leno construction, there is also the danger of build up in the selvedge area.

In an attempt to eliminate the problems outlined, the fringe of conventional leno selvedges up until now was left extraordinarily long, only to felt during the scouring process, thus compounding the problems encountered during subsequent finishing processes.

Cashmere fabrics are subjected to an intensive napping process and as a result, a very expensive tucked selvedge is necessary, since the conventional leno selvedge would be destroyed during the napping process.

All the problems encountered by the worsted weaver are eliminated by the application of the Disc-O-Leno®. The selvedge formed using this full-cross disc leno technology is very firm, when used in conjunction with very fine leno yarn and allows selvedge fringes of only 3 mm length on the weaving machine. With this new technology, the disadvantages of conventional leno selvedges – felting as a result of long selvedge fringes, tight selvedges or fringes too short, build up in the selvedge areas, or destruction in finishing – have been successfully eliminated. Thus, optimum conditions are created for automated stacking and cutting machines.

For this field of application, we recommend as leno material the use of a 100% polyamide 6.6 yarn, type SLG 1003 with a count of 43 dtex 1x2 Nm 300/2. This provides the additional advantage that during the piece dyeing process, the leno yarn takes the same dye as the fabric. This means that after finishing the leno selvedge cannot be seen.

Awning fabrics

Most awning fabrics are produced from acrylic yarns. The selvedges are cut off thermally during finishing. The usual types of leno device cannot operate with the same yarn as used in the warp, because they wear out very quickly. In the case of the air jet, the usual types of leno device additionally cause filling insertion problems.

Here DORNIER has set new ecological standards, since when utilizing the Disc-O-Leno® the leno yarn is the same as the warp yarn. Waste generated when the selvedge is subsequently removed can be recycled.

Right-hand fabric selvedge (on left: DoSelvedge®; on right: competitor’s 3-end leno selvedge)	Left-hand fabric selvedge (on left: DoSelvedge® on right: competitor’s 3-end leno selvedge)

Printed goods for women’s outerwear, bed sheets and tablecloths

In most cases tucked selvedges are used for these types of fabric and tend to build up in the same way as normal types of leno selvedges. During the printing process, the thicker selvedges lead to excessive wear on the edges of the printing rolls. Furthermore, the time involved in the setting and maintenance of tuck-in units on the weaving machine is extensive, and this results in increased fabric costs.

By utilizing the DiscoLeno® also for this application, it is possible to solve the problems experienced by the printer. Even in cases where the demands in the finishing process are high, e.g. in the case of percale, the full-cross leno meets with expectations.

Until recently, cotton flannel fabrics have been exclusively produced with tucked selvedges, due to the rigors of a very intensive napping process. With the use of the full-cross leno technology, selvedges can be produced that are fully resistant to this finishing process. For this application attention must be paid with regard to the selection of the leno yarn. This should be polyamide 6.6 yarn, type SLG Mono 30 33.3 dtex. In the case of normal types of cotton fabric, the leno yarn used should be polyamide 6.6, type SLG 1003, or alternatively a polyester yarn, type SLG Multi 49-49 dtex Z 600.

Jacquard fabrics

Practical experience has shown that in the case of air jets and also rapier weaving machines, significant improvements in productivity can be achieved by utilizing the Disc-O-Leno®. In the case of air jets, in some instances it is possible to increase the weaving speed by about 80 ppm. This is due to the fact that the leno device is no longer dependent on hooks in the jacquard machine, and there is no uncontrollable mass to be moved by means of harness cords. Moreover, it has been shown that again in the case of air jets, warp related filling stops in the selvedge area can be reduced to practically zero. This is due to the full-cross leno ends not becoming slack in the selvedge during the weaving process.

Further advantages

Generally speaking, experiences in the field have shown that costly repair time caused by ends down in the selvedge area has been almost completed eliminated by the use of the Disc-O-Leno®. The automatic filling repair and restart device AFR on the air jet operates at a higher success rate. The weaver also appreciates the much simpler handling as regards drawing-in a leno end. Furthermore, material costs can be reduced by half by the use of very fine leno yarns.

The new Disc-O-Leno® does not require additional harness frames for the leno selvedge, either special warp stop motion or selvedge spools, is easy to handle when changing the reeded width or drawing-in leno ends, requires no maintenance, can be quickly and easily adjusted to suit a very wide range of fabrics, has a kind action on the selvedge ends, saves spare parts and can be retrofitted on existing AT weaving machines.

Address of leno yarns supplier: