Modular in design, the patented EcoLeno® essentially consists of two full-cross leno devices working synchronously as one unit. The first of the two disc lenos is used to form the fabric selvedge, while the second functions as the catch selvedge. The direction of rotation is reversible, a required feature determined by the principle of the system.

As a result of this application of full-cross leno technology, it is now possible for the first time to form the catch selvedge economically with only 2 leno ends. Consequently, by forming the catch selvedge with only 2 ends this creates the entirely new possibility of recycling waste.

The advantages for our customers are:
• Reduction in the amount of filling and catch selvedge waste
• Reuse of filling waste
• Ability to produce filling waste that consists of only one type of yarn or fiber
• Elimination of the catch selvedge spools and creels
• Reduction in warp stops in the selvedge area
• Reduced workload for both the weaver and the technician
• Less time requirement during a style change
• Modular construction
• Selvedges with improved appearance and better quality
• No limitations in weaving speed due to the leno device
• Quicker width changes on jacquard machines
• Increase of 22 mm in useable reedspace on jacquard machines
• Reduction in the consumption of spare parts
• Retrofitable on all DORNIER weaving machines with the CAN-Bus system of monitoring and control

The following outline explains these advantages in more detail.

Waste saving
In the case of the rapier weaving machine and depending on the field of application, a reduction in filling waste of 2-4 cm per inserted pick is possible. And this without affecting the tried and proven open shed method of filling insertion with positive filling transfer in the center of the shed, as utilized by our weaving system.

Recycling filling waste
With 2-end technology and the firm binding of the full-cross leno, it is possible for the first time to recycle the waste and conserve the integrity of the reclaimed fiber, since the proportion of ends in the catch selvedge that are very difficult to tear apart during reclamation is reduced to a minimum. Since for all wool fabrics a catch selvedge thread of 100% wool can be used, the waste contains only one type of fiber or yarn and can therefore be reused in yarn manufacturing.

In the case of cashmere fabrics, for example, two wool ends are used in the catch selvedge. Practical experience has shown that the proportion of these two wool ends in the total volume of fiber is so low, the waste can still be considered as containing only one component fiber, since this very low amount of foreign fiber is admissible.

We are in a position to provide you with relevant information regarding the suitability of fiber reclamation equipment. However, in actual practice our customers have made use of the fact that they can ship waste containing one component fiber to the yarn manufacturer for reclamation and subsequent recycling. In effect, weaving without any filling waste from the commercial standpoint and for the very first time has been realized by DORNIER.

Elimination of the catch selvedge spools
Due to the fact that the two catch selvedge ends used by the EcoLeno® are supplied from stationary packages such as king spools that are tensioned individually, the usual types of catch selvedge spool can be completely eliminated in the majority of applications. This constitutes a considerable reduction in costs. First of all, the total cost of producing these spools, including material, can be saved. The setup time during QSC, in the preparation department, or in replacing empty spools on the weaving machine is also eliminated.

Reduction in warp stops in the selvedge area
Statistical analysis of short-term stops on the weaving machine show that 8-13% of warp stops occur in the leno and catch selvedge area. With the deployment of the EcoLeno®, these short-term stops are reduced to an absolute minimum. Warp stops in this area are reduced to a consistent level of below 0.5%.

Changes in reeded width on jacquard machines
A change in reeded width on jacquard is made a very simple operation. The complete EcoLeno® device is simply reinserted between the harness cords in the predetermined position. Repositioning centrally located harness cords for the catch selvedges and lenos, in the way it had to be done up until now, is completely unnecessary. This constitutes a considerable reduction in the time required when changing the reeded width on a jacquard machine.

Selvedges with improved appearance and better quality
Air jet weaving machines usually operate without a catch cord on the lefthand side. Depending upon the style being woven, the lefthand selvedge fringe is left extraordinarily long, causing problems during the subsequent processing of the fabric.

Particularly in the case of fabrics that are subsequently printed, such a selvedge can cause premature wear of the rotary screens. And in the fabric coating process, the clips on the tenter frame can become clogged since the long fringe in the selvedge has a tendency to pick up an excessive amount of coating material. This in turn necessitates a premature and very expensive cleaning of the tenter frame clips. EcoLeno® technology in this case enables a low cost catch selvedge to be used on the lefthand side of air jet weaving machines so that the expensive detrimental effect of the long selvedge fringe in finishing can be avoided. Above all, commodity fabric weavers supplying large quantities of fabric to finishers, who subsequently resell the fabric, will certainly benefit from the use of this technology.

Modular construction and versatility
As a result of the modular construction of the EcoLeno®, this can be reconverted at any time to the Disc-O-Leno® for special applications. Starting from the third quarter of ‘97, weaving machines supplied with the Disc-O-Leno® can be converted at any time to operate with the EcoLeno®. For DORNIER air jet weaving machines it is already possible to quickly change from the EcoLeno® to the pneumatic tucking device, or vice versa.

The EcoLeno® will be introduced on the market during the fourth quarter of ‘98. Likewise, orders can now be placed for retrofitting the device on existing weaving machines already equipped with the CAN-Bus electronic system. It is not possible to generalize as regards the cost advantages to be gained from the deployment of the EcoLeno®. The achievable savings in costs must be calculated on the basis of specific areas of application. For this purpose we are offering our customers a special service. We can calculate the savings on a case by case basis by means of a computer program, thus providing each customer with accurate information based on specific circumstances.